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Anyone in Vanuatu ?

I visit PV several times a year solely for my love of fresh kava. Anyone one in the forum heading that way or local. Would love to catch up for some shells. Anyway I'm heading there next week & drop me a msg. I know my way around all the best nakamals like the back of my hand.
 

The Kap'n

The Groggy Kaptain (40g)
KavaForums Founder
I'm gonna save your screen name under "Bucket List". It's a dream for me, and I'm sure quite a few members of this board to one day visit Vanuatu, and sample kava right off the root in the motherland. Out of curiosity one day it was slow at work and I researched flights into Vanuatu and as they say here in the south "You can't get there from here". It looks like I would first have to fly into New Zealand then connect with a flight that carries on into the Polynesians.


Also I'd love to visit not only for kava, but to enjoy the sights and sounds of a culture so incredibly different from what I'm use to seeing here in the good ole US of A.
 
G'day Kapncrunk. It's going to certainly ruin drinking powdered kava from that point on in your life as you will then know what you can get. It's jet fuel by comparison. You can can get there return ex brisbane for bit over $500 return & accom is from resort to island village, ive stayed in them all. The taste is much more sappy & at $1 shell I've had nights there on $4 & needed to stop it can get so strong. Best part is no dry skin or next day sickness from fresh. Where I usually pull up for accom in the centre of port vila has 3 nakamals within 100 meters away so it's all around you. If you like kava then you can't depart this life without visiting...ive pretty well filled a passport going there in the last 10 years. If you ever need info drop me a message & ill be happy to help you out with any questions.
 

kavadude

❦ॐ tanuki tamer
I wish. Of course if I was in Vanuatu right now I would be at a nakamal and not posting on the internet.
 

kavadude

❦ॐ tanuki tamer
Nemo if you want to share more about your experiences or have any good stories about Vanuatu I would be interested in hearing them.
I myself am going to visit Australia eventually...and you can bet I'm including a detour to Vanuatu.
 
G'day kava dude, every night there is a story. I'm slowly learning bislama but not enough to speak fluently as they speak softly & a lot of dialects. Prob one of my most memorable was twice now I've stayed in a village down on tanna island at the very base of the volcano Yasur. I was drinking kava prepared by the villagers chewing it (that's just how it's done on that island, fearcly traditional. The volcano erupts maybe every 2-4 mins as it has for at least 700 years & the village isn't a mile as the crow flies from the main vent. I've gone up & watched it at night heaving & throwing rocks the size of suitcases over your head. You need a village guide as they will keep you safe. As you rest in your hut it shakes with the eruptions & you sleep listening to the ash fall on it. It bellows all night & day & you can watch if from the whole village even the toilet. That was old root kava & almost too strong. Very sweet & easy to drink, I assume from everyone's saliva.

I eat with them, flying fox bat & rice. Amazing people & unbelievably gentle & friendly. The chief once suffered a broken arm from a village fight (compound fracture) they set it with no pain killers by pushing bamboo inside to splint it. Hard man but still deeply Christian. They love looking after you & will sit you down on arrival & let you know what is expected & how they will look after you. I once drank the wrong water there & travelled the next 7 days with 3 pairs of underpants, lost about 7 kg ! I assume most here would know tanna is home to the John Frum Cargo Cult, yes it's real. Hang over from the war in the pacific most believe.
 

The Kap'n

The Groggy Kaptain (40g)
KavaForums Founder
Let me just pull up a chair here. This is fascinating. Any stories you're willing to share we're willing to listen to...or read in this case.
 
Kapmcrunk said:
Let me just pull up a chair here. This is fascinating. Any stories you're willing to share we're willing to listen to...or read in this case.
ava
Landed late afternoon. Without question if you visit choose mid year, usually dry & maybe 25c (75f) & only varies a few either side. Was up til midnight in 2 nakamals & as always was given food, you have to keep in mind you will just be handed something & hygiene isnt something they are too concerned with as they have guts like steel boilers. Some sort of nut that had bitter skin, really shouldnt have eaten it knowing what a gut bug can do to a holiday. Ive pulled ok this morning,i always drink berroca (fizzy vit B) before sleep, kava can play merry hell bodies your bodies vit B. You get about in small busses, little 8 seaters that each have their own unique smell & its either island music or reggae music playing, some of the younger drivers pimp them up with lights & roof felt. Any trip of a few miles is 150vt (roughly $1.60 aud 1.50 usd) They always ask why im here & laugh when i tell them for kava only, they just dont get spending $1000 a few times a year for kava. Wages are very low here which always blows me out knowing just how very safe you are here. They value & protect the tourists dollar. They all know if there is the smallest doubt of visitors safety then their incomes dry up over night.
Nakamals here are very dark & quiet...seedy isnt the word (black as a bats arse i call them), there is little light & you need to sit & let your eyes adjust & within mins you realise you may be sitting with 10 men, they are just all very quiet as they let the kava settle in, or as they say 'listen to the kava'. A nakamal will have a light out on the street to show its there, usually a low watt globe in a bottle & it will be green or red. A continual sound of spitting never stops, the floors are just totally covered in spit, everyone spits all the time. I sat my phone on a table last night & when i picked it up i realised id sat it in some, it was all slimy.. i laughed as i should have known better. I always bring what i call nakamal sandles & i leave them outside my room & bin then before i leave, i dont want them in my suitcase knowing what they have been walking in for a week. The floors are usually just dirt or crushed coral. Im 6'3 & nakamals can be hard on your head, they are low & in the daylight its not unusual to see a 3" nail at head height for me, being my 10th odd trip ive got the bad ones picked & still the same nails are there every time i arrive. They are usually palm frond roofs & little siding. The chairs are always home made bench seats & i will carry a small torch to make sure im not about to sit in spit, ive done it plently of time before. Bright lights are not whats needed in a nakamal so sometimes its best to use your phone light to look about. A torch is handy if you head off on the roads as they have holes that will see a foot or ankle twisted.  You can get up to get another shell & leave your wallet/phone passport in your bag where you sit in the pitch black, no-ones taking it, its not what happens here. You can walk into a nakamal with 40 men in it & you are so accepted here that no a soul will even look at you & if someone passes you will hear a soft greeting & maybe a one finger hand shake. They are content people.
Trying to upload a photo but its not working my end, apologies if its appeared a few times, will try & sort it later.
 
Thats it mate. Just walked past the markets this morning...300vt/kg is $3usd. Makes me cry thinking of what i have to pay in australia for crap powdered kava. 3 hours 'til the early nakamal opens, im ready to fire up again.





Love the feet !
 

sɥɐʞɐs

Avg. Dosage: 8 Tbsp. (58g)
Review Maestro
I've been enjoying the pictures and stories. I was gonna go to Vanuatu some years back, but ever since US economy crashed I've never been able to re-attain the spare travel cash I used to have. I'd be interested to hear a more detailed report on the fresh-kava experience as compared to the dried root powder we all drink. thanks.
 
shakas said:
I've been enjoying the pictures and stories. I was gonna go to Vanuatu some years back, but ever since US economy crashed I've never been able to re-attain the spare travel cash I used to have. I'd be interested to hear a more detailed report on the fresh-kava experience as compared to the dried root powder we all drink. thanks.
Shakas im no journalist but i'll give it a shot. Its a lot different to powder, much more of a sappy taste, lighter & nowhere near the 'dirt or muddy' flavour, i think this sappiness gives it a sour taste & a deep chartreuse colour. Ive just got back from 2 other nakamals (im typing verry slooowwly) & in one i got a floater, i dont even want to know what it was & you can still gag on the stuff. Never had any objects in kava here before, more than likely a beetle. Most folk i drink with will put 15-20 mins between shells & depending on the strength on the night, will drink between 3-6 shells. Ive had nights here where i stopped at 3 or 4 because i knew i would have some difficulty walking. As to the effect, i dont really feel differences in kavas, here i simply know if its strong or stronger thats it really (relative to powdered of course). Taste is where it really changes for me, this will change from nakamal to nakamal quite substantially, im told its due to varieties & soil types. I tend to listen to the expats advice living here as they drink it daily & some for 20 years. A lot of people when they first go to a nakamal are a bit taken back with hygiene particularly the washing of the shells (small plastic chinese type soup bowls) They are really just dipped in clean water & reused. Again i watch the expats that are into it daily & they all say its ok, so ive no issues with it, maybe fresh kava has enough antiseptic properties to see us all through ok. Thats it really...you have enough or too much & believe me ive had it until ive been flat on my guts spewing 2 jets of it out of my nose on a golf course at midnight until i learnt how much i can have. It can easily give your real double vision quickly if its a good brew so you have to walk with one eye covered. One old island lady here said 'tallfela walk like crab' a few times when she saw me leaving the nakamal. Im quite careful when ive had a big night as they drive on the right here which is totally out of whack to me & it would'nt take a lot to wander in front of one of the hundreds of small buses trying to navigate the road home in pitch black.
 

Idgie

Kava Enthusiast
Nemo - your stories & pics are fabulous!  Thank you so much.

One thing I'm curious about from the stories & pics - do women not go to the nakamals?    And if not - why?

I'm just interested in knowing from an 'insider'.   :)

Thanks again!
 

JonT

Kava Enthusiast
I'm not expert like Nemo but I would say to those like kapmcrunk interested in Vanuatu, maybe get to Hawaii first. I assume there's plenty of competition so you could get cheap flights in advance. From there, you can fly Fiji Airways (used to be Air Pacific) onto Nadi. From there, it depends how you want to do it. You can hop fairly easily to Vila from Nadi, but I would consider also linking up a visit to the Solomon Islands. It's not quite as easy to reach though. One option is to use the Fiji Airways route from Nadi to Honiara, and then after you Sollies trip take FA to Vila. Or you could go to Brisbane first and then fly Virgin to Honiara. I definitely think the Solomon Islands are worth it. They don't have a strong kava culture (try Betel Nut instead :D ) but there's at least one kava bar in town. The one on the waterfront (Pacific Haus) had the most life altering kava I've ever touched anywhere. It was off the scale, less than 1USD per shell and totally worth the trip. The surroundings are depressing though (caged dolphins, caged birds of prey, caged crocodile :( ).
That's it really. I reckon if you're going to go all the way to Vanuatu, you should consider the short hop over to the Solomons as well. 

PS Can anyone tell me how to quote someone in a reply and how to exit out of their quote once inside the reply? I can't see a display code button, and I always end up trying to respond but being inside their quoted area. If that makes sense.
 
Hi Idgie.. its common for women to drink kava in the Port Vila nakamals. Many expat wives drink at them as well as some nivan women (locals), its fully accepted. I know to the south on Tanna Island its not allowed, men only (at least that was my observation from 2 trips to Tanna). From what ive head its ok up in the north too on Santo.
In Vila its really just treated like a western type bar, walk in & buy a shell. You take the shell to a drinking area (usually just around a corner from the counter) There is often a tap at that area & if its a small rough built nakamal without plumbing then you take a bottle of water from the counter. You slam the kava down & spit, its just done that way, you spit to get the left over kava from your mouth & wash the shell out & rinse your mouth then move to a seat & sit (if you dont spit its obvious your new to nakamals, spit is everywhere). There are unwritten rules that visitors/tourists sometimes break such as rowdy behaviour ...nakamals are for quiet times, an area of meeting friends, quiet conversation & contemplation. I see tourists will get their shell & sit down to sip it & sometimes a local will come over & politely show them what to do & take them to the spitting area, not to correct them but simply to show them how its done as a mark of sharing. If visitors are loud then they have not had kava but maybe alcohol, thankfully thats not common. You can buy a beer & food at most nakamals. You have a shell & then eat a small item (kakae) to brink the kava on. Women sell food there, maybe 20c-50c for an item like a piece of fresh fruit or maybe some crab.
These people are very tolerant if a group of visitors were rowdy though. No-one really presses a point, ive seen an australian naval group visit act like complete idiots at a nakamal & they were simply ignored. I was almost at the point of a quiet suggestion to them however they quickly grew bored as a nakamal isnt a hive of excitement.
 

JonT

Kava Enthusiast
My impression of nakamals in Vila is that they might be really seedy and dodgy places (low light levels, down back alleys etc....) if anything other than kava were sold there. A great example of the civilising influence of kava (smiley: happy)
 

kavadude

❦ॐ tanuki tamer
I really like your description and pictures of the atmosphere at nakamals. I've never been one to go to bars but I could see myself going out to a nakamal often if I had one near me. Well except for the spit part but what can you do. Do you end up with a lot of kava sediment in your mouth? I never spit after drinking my home strained kava myself, wanna make sure I drink all of it so I wash it down with water.
 
Yes they certainly do have that very seedy dark look however these are just normal meeting places. In my 10 trips here & sitting in them hours & hours on end, ive never seen or heard of anything what so ever but kava,food & beer sold in them. I know anything else would not be tolerated by the elders, these are strong communities. They simply dont have anything else which is hard for visitors to grasp.
They dont see dark areas,dirt floors & tin walls as seedy as we do, to them its 'we only have one small light' ...'dirt is easy to maintain' & 'the tin is cheap & keeps rain out'. Hope i got that out right but its just all they have to build with, not what they choose. But you are actually on the money, they look really scary if you are new to them in a dark dirt street. Ill take a few photos of them in the day light today if you like so you can see what they actually look like. Because i tend to drink kava with expats , they tend to go to the fancier ones but i will photograph some basic ones today for you if you like.
 
kavadude said:
I really like your description and pictures of the atmosphere at nakamals. I've never been one to go to bars but I could see myself going out to a nakamal often if I had one near me. Well except for the spit part but what can you do. Do you end up with a lot of kava sediment in your mouth? I never spit after drinking my home strained kava myself, wanna make sure I drink all of it so I wash it down with water.
Yeah the spitting im told is a mark of respect to the nakamal owner showing that his kava is good & strong. That said, it appears just to be to get the taste out of your mouth. I dont spit it at home if I'm drinking powdered kava but i do rinse my mouth. Expats here will buy a soft drink,coke (a soda i think you call it) or beer to sip between shells. Fresh kava is quite bitter & it stays in your mouth.
 
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